wireless foot pedal/remote control for forward facing sonar/livescope

Wireless foot pedal and remotes for this build: 7/26/26: Added a pole mount for the hand-held remotes — zip-tie it to the rod, then slide the remote into place. Works great; important to print in the orientation shown and use the strength setting. (It may be obvious, but worth noting: if you're only using hand-held remotes, you only need the KR1202.) 7/30/26: Added a different version of the rod mount. This one is less pokey and covers the "C" button so your thumb has a place to rest. 8/3/26 Added a rod mount that should work better for baitcast rods and changed the design of all of them so they will print without supports. Components (purchased July 2026, mostly from Amazon) Foot pedal: • Pactrade windlass foot switches — $27/pair • Qiachip TX183 — $3 plus shipping • Uxcell silicone foam seal cord, 3mm — $6 • 9V battery holder — 4 for $6 • 9-volt battery • Avenuebool waterproof silicone conformal coating for electronics — $9 • (2) 5/32" x 1.5" screws and nuts Motor/battery side: • Qiachip KR1202 with remotes — $16 • (2) P67 cable glands • (2) 5/32" x 1.5" screws and nuts • (2) #6 pan head screws Wiring: • TY16 2-pin male/female waterproof plugs with screw connections (not solder) — $10 • Wire terminals, fuse holder and 5-amp fuse, 16 AWG or larger wire Assembly (Should be easy to follow along with the pictures.) 1. Feed the switches' wires through the "tunnels" on the pedal base to the opposite side. 2. Silicone around the buttons (I skipped this) and mount each switch using the included screws in the bottom two holes only. Note: those screws are too long for the top holes — they'll poke through into the tunnel and risk shorting the wires. Use shorter screws in those. (I just left them empty after noticing that but I’m kind of a deadbeat.) 3. The 9v battery box is press-fit. Slide the switch to ON and place that side down so you’ll have access to the hatch. 4. Test the wire connections. If everything's wired correctly, the TX183's blue LED will light up when you press each button, once it's paired to the KR1202. 5. Cut the windlass wires to size and make the permanent connections. 6. Place the TX183 in the small box and fill it with the electronics silicone. The coiled wire is the antenna so point it up. Weigh down the wires if needed to keep the board submerged, give the silicone 2-3 hours to harden. 7. Bundle the wires and zip-tie them together. 8. Cut the weather strip cord to size and press it into the groove. (Not sure how necessary this step is, I think water would have a tough time getting in.) 9. Press the nuts into the bottom and push them up with a screw until they bottom out. Attach the lid and screw it down. 10. The KR1202 just screws down to the posts in the box. Check the wiring diagram for connections. _ Programming 1. Press the KR1202 learning button (KEY) 8 times until the LED flashes — this clears everything. 2. Wait a couple seconds, then press KEY once and wait for the LED to turn off. 3. Press one of the foot pedal buttons — the LED will flash, then turn off. 4. Press the other foot pedal button — the LED will flash, then stay lit. That's it. If the left and right buttons end up reversed from what you want, either swap the M1 and M2 wires, or repeat steps 1–2 and redo step 3 with the opposite button first, then step 4 with the other. Repeat steps 2–4 to program the hand-held remote's buttons. Notes • Using the pedal is ok but not great. A couple things I don’t like. You get pretty big moves with each press of a button, and it’s difficult to press the button with your heel down on the deck. You almost have to lift your whole foot. I'm not sure yet how to improve this. • I can see where the button covers will get irritating. I’d recommend cutting them off before mounting. I figured I’d be able to just pull them off but they’re surprisingly tough. • The hand-held remotes that are included with the KR1202 have 3 buttons but you can only use 2. (Thank you captain obvious.) • The windlass switches: I don't think the brand matters but some have a metal ring around the outside and I'm not sure whether that style will fit the print. • I had to order the TX183 directly from Qiachip (couldn’t find it anywhere else), it took about 2 weeks to arrive. On their site under options, choose "1 PC 2CH Transmitter Module." After receiving it I was PO’d because it had TX181 printed on the board. I contacted them and apparently if it has four wires, it’s a 183???? • I included two boxes to mount the 1202. Print the one with holes if you want to use the same cable glands I did, or print the other if you’d rather go a different way. Question or problems let me know.